Brake duct project

So I have put my brake ducting system project on hiatus. My track days at Mazda Race Way at Laguna Seca is approaching soon and was worried about brake fading. Brake fading for those of you that don't know is when your brake system have reach beyond the capacity of the brake system (where you lost the ability to stop/slow down). This is caused when there is excessive build up of heat, it can come from any one of these causes or any two or even all three: mechanical, friction or fluid.

Currently the brake pads I have on the car is Hawk HP plus, which is more of a autocross pad than a track day pad. And being at Laguna Seca which has rolling hills I was concerned that I would be braking quite often and have brake fad. Brake fluid is going to be replaced w/ ATE Super Blue, which has a boiling point of 536 degree F and and a wet boiling point of 388 degrees F.

So I have decided to get Porsche GT3 Brake ducts, the idea came from the evolutionm.net forums by goofygrin. Pick up a set on ebay for 36.00.

I had to make a few modification to them by trimming the tabs, but installations when in fairly easy, to keep it in place zip ties were used to keep them in place.


The ducts direct air directly to the bottom of the brake rotors which "should" be adequate cooling. (crossing my fingers)

So you maybe wondering why the project was put on hiatus, the reason is simple I was not ready to cut into the frame of the car, yet. The car is too new and too nice, but later on when the car is slightly older.

more on the ducting

So I picked up a Aluminum sheet metal and started to draw out my patterns and started
cutting away.


Cutting took some time, cause I first started using a dremel w/ a cut off wheel, I later on changed to a angle grinder which was much faster but not as clean.

One thing I realized I could really use is a sheet metal break.

So I took a break in making the inlet pieces and started making the pieces for the bumper beam deflectors.

To get the curvature I rolled the piece over a 3.00" tubing.




Inserted the deflector into the bumper beam.

Another angle on how the deflector will work when air is traveling through the bumper beam. Looks like a success.

All and all I feel very content on the progress, and hope to have more updates. Note to self that I need to remember to take pics when I'm working so I can show the progress.

Autox at Great America

I recently had the opportunity to go auto crossing and one of my buddies allowed me to use his gopro on my last run. This run was my second fastest time of 46.709, my fastest lap time was 46.667.



My first two runs were in the 48 sec realm, and on my 3rd run someone asked me what did I do differently to break into the 46sec realm, and I told him that I turned earlier to compensate for the understeer I was encountering.
After this auto cross I noticed that my rear sway bar endlink was off, which I hope will allow me for faster times.

Some updates

So its been along time since I have updated on progress on my build. Some current things being developed is a integrated brake ducting system and a wind splitter. I wanted to create ducting system that is not of the typical design, instead of running hoses along the underside of the car, I wanted to integrate the ducting within the frame of the car. I got the idea from some Subaru race cars.


I know ducting is probably the last thing I should consider when upgrading brakes. I know that going w/ different fluids, and pads would be sufficient enough. BTW I'm currently running Hawk HP plus, which are great pads for my usage. The Evo X is no light weight, and weights in a 3500lbs so ducting was something I just wanted to do since I plan on doing a track day in the near future.

The inlet part of of my design I had an idea of using some preexisting holes located in the front part of the bumper.

This picture shows the holes are bring used for the inter cooler which will now serve as the ducting inlet. But to do this I will have to modify the front bumper beam and create an air deflector so it will direct air in the proper location.

So I hacked the bumper beam up in 3 section. I wanted to try and keep majority of it, since it has brackets for the inter cooler and bumper. Hacking the bumper beam may not be the safest thing or even blocking part s of the inter cooler, but I think the benefits out weight the drawbacks.

Taking apart the bumper I noticed in order for my design to work I would need to cut some holes to allow the air to flow to the brakes.




I drew up a template for the inlet deflector.






This is what I hope it will do. Still another deflector will needed along the bumper beam to get the air to travel from bumper beam to the frame of the car. But all and all I am pretty happy w/ what I have so far.

Some updated picture for the Cold Air Intake

So I finally got a chance to take some pictures where the filter is located with the bumper off.




The clearance is excellent. On another note I had the opportunity to check out an EVO X MR and found out that the transmission is allot larger than the standard GSR which covers the entrance where the CAI would go, so making a CAI work on a MR would not be possible.

Time off

So I know it has been awhile since I have last blogged but its because I have been doing some testing and remeasuring the stuff I have created. I am looking to produce some of my things ever since I have been getting lots of response from the evoxforums. Some of my plans are making a cold air intake for the Evo MR, new mirror mounts so that people can get rid of that truck size mirror, and I still need to blog about my Tune by Mike Croutcher and his friend Mike. So much to do and not enough time.

Some things to come.

So some things to come and look forward to:
1. Blog about tuning by D.S.S. (Diamond Star Specialist) Mike Croutcher and Mike the Tuner
2. Catalytic Converter modifications
3. Brake Ducts
4. Front End Wind Splitter

Below are some drawing made on Solidworks that I am currently working on.

Brake duct that bolt to the caliper bracket

Front end air splitter frame work.

O2 Housing/Downpipe

So I was graciously given an ATP O2 housing down pipe. This is one part I did not make. The difference between this down pipe compared to the normal down pipe is that this one attaches to the turbo housing, while other ones attach after the O2 housing. The one I received has pluming specifically for the waste gate which is to prevent turbulence to the exhaust flow.

A couple of pics on the O2 housing down pipe.


This is no easy install, took me a total of 5 hours. When first installing the down pipe I had an exhaust leak coming from the band clamp for the waste gate, I removed the band clamp around making sure it is fully wrapped around and had re torque the band clamp. I am also trying to reuse all of the heat shield components, but noticed that some of the threads that hold the heat shield were on the O2 hosing. Because the bolts can not all be installed to hold the shield it is causing a rattling noise, which can be heard inside the cabin. I am currently debating on keeping the heat shield on.

Although the install was a pain, the down pipe does fit in nicely. Power difference is very noticeable, boost comes on stronger, and there is a slight increase in exhaust noise. By the way I must note that I am still running the stock catalytic converter. I am trying to really strive in keep pollution to a minimum. The factory catalytic converter does have a higher load of precious metals compared to any aftermarket catalytic converter and should be able to handle the additional of horsepower which can and will increase the rate of HC, CO and NOx. Maybe especially on NOx you may see a increase since its endothermic due to the increase of boost.

Upper Intercooler Pipe

So the Upper Inter Cooler Pipe (UICP) is a part I wanted to make right when I bought my car. Its fairly simple there is already after market replacement parts readily available. If you don't know what the UICP is here is a picture of it.

The reason why people like to change this particular part is that the rubber pieces would expand like a balloon under boost by changing them to hard pipes throttle response is allot crisper and smoother power response and is known for power gains also.

I must confess to something, when I bought the car I did buy an aftermarket UICP from a manufacturer that allot people seemed to buy from on the evoxforums, the fit was very good, it came w/ nice t-bolt clamps and all the hardware to install. The problem I found was that the gauge of aluminum used to make this pipe was pretty thin and using t-bolt clamps on them you have to be careful and not over torque them otherwise you may end up have oval pipes. Also if you don't tighten them enough you can get boost leak fairly easy. There was such little room for error. Also what I thought was funny is that most aftermarket pieces for this UICP is that they redo a part that is already a hard pipe. To me it seems like a waste of money. Below I point out what I'm talking about.


So instead of redoing the hard pipe piece, I decided just to make the replacement pieces for the rubber parts.


Part started off from 2 pieces of aluminum 2.50" 45deg bends. Cut and bead rolled ends.


Pipe welded up and silicone hoses attached.

I have been asked what the sizes of the hoses are. The one to the left is 1.75" to 2.50" transition piece and the one to the right is a 2.50" straight connect.


Installation of the final work, but plans on getting it painted is soon to come.

Cold Air Intake

I made a Cold Air Intake (CAI). This particular part always seems so debatable for turbo cars. The debate always seems to be that air that is drawn in doesn't need to be cool because the intercooler job is the take out the heat. Others say that CAI have shown horsepower gains. For me, I believe it can't hurt and it would mean less work for the intercooler.

The problem with making a CAI system on newer cars is that they have a Mass Air Flow (MAF) meters and to make a decision of removing the metering housing and replacing it may offset the Air/Fuel (A/F). The MAF has been calibrated for the housing it comes w/. By changing the size or even trying to match the size of the original MAF housing it will throw off the reading and can make the A/F lean.

So I decided to keep the MAF housing stock to keep the A/F in check. The pluming started off as a 3.00" mandrel "U" bend



This is the drawing that I did on Solidworks. This drawing shows what it will look like when its all said and done.



Tack welded the pipe together.


Fully welded and welds grind down.


Bracket welded to the intake.


Painted with wrinkle paint


Product installed and ready to race.


Location of where the filter sits.


No dyno results have been done, but on the freeway it pulls hard. Intake sound has increased in noise. All in all fit and finish has been perfect.

Inlet pipe for the turbo

So I decided to make the suction pipe for the turbo inlet, this particular part is made of hard plastic/rubber and has bellows which is good for twist and motion absorption, but bad on fluid air flow.


This part was no easy task to replicate, w/ help from a member on the evolutionm forums I was able to get the angles of the pipe needed.



The part started off with a 3.00" aluminum "U" bend.


Drawing parts on Solidworks is just awesome, also I must thanks my brother Sam who got me the program Snagit, it sure is helpful for blogging.


Design it on Solidworks I was able to print out 1:1 scale pattern mark my edges so I would have near perfect cuts and angles on my pipe.


This is the mock up of the pieces, so far so good.


After all the welding and grinding this is what I came up w/, I would say its very close to the original. What do you think?


And here is it after its all said and done with paint and all.



I would say I could not make a better inlet pipe, or even buy one. the fit and finish is pretty dang good.

Exhaust time w/ the EVO X

So I have been given a muffler to try out from Flowmaster called the Hushpower dBX. This muffler is different in design compared to allot of mufflers out in the market today. Flowmaster has been around for 25years and has dominated the Muscle car market and never really struck and accord in the import market. So what sets this part apart from other mufflers, is that this muffler has a perforated cone shape tube. When the hot exhaust gas enter into the muffler and expands, the angle (specifically calculated) on the cone disrupts the turbulent gases to control it.

A picture below shows the inside of the muffler and what I'm talking about


So the project started off w/ some building materials: a few mandrel bends, stainless steel 3.00" flanges, some hangers and a 4.00" single wall tip.


So I tried to keep the bends as minimal as possible to not cause much disruption, but honestly we are probably talking only 0.5-1hp loss if I were to use 90deg bends, but luckily I only had 15deg bends to work w/.

Below is a pic of the set up. In the picture I decided not to use a resonator to quite down the sound alittle more.





So I finished mocking up the exhaust and drove it home. The sound of the exhaust is not loud to my ears, although I still have the stock catalytic converter and the stock down pipe which allot of people w/ EVOs seem to replace it w/ higher flowing parts. But the sound is very mellow, the cool part of the muffler is that when you whomp on the throttle the sound it cut where you can barely hear it. It definitely lives up to its name.



To optimize my exhaust system I decided to make this Hushpower more like Stealthpower. So I picked up some VHT Flameproof header paint at a local autoparts store, not only will this make my exhaust more sleeper, but the coating will also help keep the heat within the exhaust system. Keeping the heat within the exhaust helps keep the velocity of the exhaust pulses. I like to used lava as a good example of how keeping the heat will keep the velocity up. When lava is exposed it will travel slowly, but keep lava in a insulated tube it will travel quickly. A simple formula for ideal gas laws pV=nRT. In this equation as Temperature is up so too is the Volume.


The only down side to this paint is that it take 7 days to cure. I also installed a resonator also.

The final complete exhaust system